Geneva
Resting on the south-western tip of Lac
Léman (Lake Geneva), Geneva is the cosmopolitan, graceful soul of
Switzerland's French-speaking territory, a high-profile crossroads of
wealth, influence, and cultures from around the world.
Rolls-Royces purr past manicured promenades, and grand mansarded
mansions stand guard beside the River Rhône, where yachts bob and gulls
dive. The combination of Swiss efficiency and French savoir faire gives
Geneva a chic polish, and it is home to some of the world's most
luxurious and exclusive stores and extravagant restaurants.
And while Geneva is well known as a stronghold of private banks, it is
perhaps less known as the home of the European headquarters of the
United Nations and the birthplace of Calvinism and the International Red
Cross.
The city was known for enlightened tolerance long before Henri Dunant
founded the Red Cross, however: It gave refuge not only to religious
reformers John Calvin and John Knox but also to the writers Voltaire,
Victor Hugo, Alexandre Dumas, Honoré de Balzac, and Stendhal. Lord
Byron, Percy Bysshe and Mary Shelley, Richard Wagner, and Franz Liszt
all escaped to Geneva when scandal erupted at home.
The conservative Genevois still seem to hear Calvin tsk-tsking in their
ears as they hurry by the pricey boutiques and palatial hotels. It is
the well-heeled and well-traveled foreigners who seem to indulge
themselves the most, as executives jet in and out, and Middle Eastern
oil money flows in.
But Geneva does let down her discreet chignon twice a year. Every August
the city organizes a 10-day-long party, Les Fêtes de Genève, that draws
huge crowds to the waterfront for a spectacular grand finale of
fireworks set to music. The Fête de l'Escalade (Festival of the
Escalade), in December, celebrates Geneva's independent spirit.
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