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If London contained only its landmarks -- Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, the Tower of London -- it would still rank as one of the world's top destinations. But England's capital is much more! It's a bevy of British bobbies, an ocean of black umbrellas, and an unconquered continuance of more than 2,000 years of history. A city that loves to be explored, London beckons with great museums, royal pageantry, and quirky historical hideaways.

London is an ancient city whose history greets you at every turn. To gain a sense of its continuity, stand on Waterloo Bridge at the hour of sunset. To the east, the great globe of St. Paul's Cathedral glows golden in the fading sunlight as it has since the 17th century, still majestic amid the towers of glass and steel that hem it in. To the west stand the mock-medieval ramparts of Westminster -- here you'll find the "Mother of Parliaments," which has met here or hereabouts since the 1250s. Past them both snakes the swift, dark Thames, as it flowed past the first Roman settlement here, circa AD 50.

For much of its history, innumerable epigrams and observations have been coined about London by both her enthusiasts and detractors. The great 18th-century writer and wit Samuel Johnson said that a man who is tired of London is tired of life. Oliver Wendell Holmes said, "No person can be said to know London. The most that anyone can claim is that he knows something of it." Simply stated, London is one of the most interesting places on earth. There is no other place like it in its agglomeration of architectural sins and sudden intervention of almost rural sights, in its medley of styles, in its mixture of the green loveliness of parks and the modern gleam of neon. Thankfully, the old London of Queen Anne and Georgian architecture can still be discovered under the hasty routine of later additions.

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Discovering it takes a bit of work, however. Modern-day London still largely reflects its medieval layout, a willfully difficult tangle of streets. Even Londoners get lost in their own city. But London's bewildering street pattern will be a plus if you want to experience its indefinable historic environment. London is a walker's city and will repay every moment you spend exploring on foot. The undaunted visitor who wants to penetrate beyond the city's crust is well advised to not only visit St. Paul's Cathedral and the Tower but also to set aside some time for random wandering. Walk in the back streets and mews around Park Lane and Kensington. Pass up Buckingham Palace for Kew, the smallest royal palace, beautifully situated in the botanical gardens. Take in the National Gallery, but don't forget London's "time machine" museums, such as the 19th-century homes of Linley Sambourne and Sir John Soane. For out-and-out glamour, pay a call on the palatial Wallace Collection and Apsley House, the historic residence of the Duke of Wellington.

While the outward shapes may be altered and the inner spirit may be warmer now than in years past, the bedrock of London's character remains the same. The British bobby is alive and well, although more often to be seen in flashing cars than on the beat, walking the streets. And teatime is still a hallowed part of the day, with, if you search hard enough, scones, jam, cream, and delicate triangles of sandwiches. Then, of course, there is that greatest living link with the past -- the Royal Family. Don't let the tag "typical tourist" stop you from enjoying the pageantry of the Windsors, one of the greatest free shows in the world. Pomp reaches its zenith in mid-June when the queen celebrates her official birthday with a parade called Trooping the Colour.

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